The Art, Science, and Passion of Cheese

An Interview with Cheesemongers Tommy Amorim, Stefania Patrizio, and Max Lazary of South Philly’s Famous Di Bruno Bros. 

StrEATS: Let’s start with the basics. What exactly does a cheesemonger do? What’s a Day in the Life look like?

Tommy:​ A day in the life of a cheesemonger starts with opening the shop, setting up ambient and cold displays of cheese, and performing triage (taking care of any mold growth or development, facing cheeses by scraping them, or testing for quality). Once we’ve “set the table” (done our diligence) and confirmed we are offering aesthetically pleasing and high-quality products, we get to salesmanship/service and side work. Salesmanship is what we love, as it is relating the true stories and histories of each cheese we’ve curated in the selection in an exciting way that captures the soul and story of the farm, culture, and product.

Max: We also tell customers why [a cheese] tastes, smells, and looks the way it does. We give cheese samples and maybe share some thoughts on what to look for as they’re enjoying it. It’s also our job to help guide a customer to cheese that they may like, even if they’re not quite sure what that exact cheese might be.

StrEATS: How did you (or how does one) get into the profession

Tommy: My Grandfather was a cheesemonger at Di Bruno Bros. for over 60 years. While that may be enough to spark one’s interest, having a true passion for anything can translate into the world of cheese.

Stephania: Just apply! If you’re passionate about food or cheese then you’re a perfect candidate. I used to work in advertising and after 10 years of daydreaming about it at work, I finally applied. Not every day is romantic, but some days, like when you have a magical interaction with a stranger over cheese, definitely are.

StrEATS: What makes DiBruno’s cheese selection special/unique?

Stephania: There are not a lot of cheese shops like DiBruno Bros that can evoke a feeling. You can taste cheeses from all over the world. Transport yourself to a taste of place. But even the shop itself, especially in the Italian Market location, can make you feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Even the smell is nostalgic for people.

StrEATS: What is something about your work (or about cheese) that might surprise people?

Tommy: That most cheesemakers and farmers work 7 days a week, as animals do not understand the human social concept of weekends and holidays.

StrEATS: You can only eat three kinds of cheese for the rest of your life. What are they and why?

Tommy: Parmigiano Cravero, Comte Sagesse, and Crottin de Chavignol.

Stephania: Le Cret Gruyere because it can do anything. A perfectly ripe Harbison. Locatelli, because not only am I a Philly girl but my family is from the south of Italy where sheep milk is more prevalent. I didn’t grow up with Parmigiano Reggiano. I only came to appreciate it working here.

Max: Pecorino Ginepro because I think it’s the perfect Italian sheep’s milk cheese. The rind is coated with balsamic vinegar and juniper which sets it apart.

An aged goat cheese called Finger Lakes Gold Reserve from Lively Run Dairy because it shows that smaller producers in the United States can also make great cheeses just like Europe.

Mozzarella di Bufala because there is something so magical about a fresh cheese that feels like the perfect expression of the milk it is made from. The cheese is bright, sweet, and almost refreshing in a way that most cheeses are not.